Bikepacking Upper Svaneti: 6 Days of Spectacular Georgian Scenery

Although I mostly bikepack solo, for this trip I was lucky enough to bring together a group of enthusiastic bikepackers. We connected through a local cycling community Telegram chat and the route planning went from there. 

I was apprehensive about cycling with a group, particularly a group I did not know, but it worked out really well. Within the group, we had a mix of fitness levels. Everyone cycled at their own pace, and the faster ones would wait at the top of a climb or at the next junction.

A big thanks to Nastya, Vlad, Misha, and Alexei for joining the trip and being such great company.

Bikepacking with others is fun.

The Route

The route makes good use of the Georgian Railway, starting in Kutaisi and finishing in Zugdidi. We commenced from the Kutaisi International Airport train station in order to connect with another group of cyclists travelling from Batumi. Our route formed a loop of Svaneti running counter-clockwise, but it’s also possible to do this clockwise.

Trip Report

Day 1: Kutaisi to Tsageri

We set off from the Kutaisi International Airport station but stopped in Kutaisi to stock up on food. Kutaisi is the last major town with a decent range of food products until you reach Mestia.

To make the ride more interesting we rode a minor gravel road that follows the Rioni River. Since this trip the road has been completely resurfaced and is now asphalt. This route is largely traffic-free and provides fantastic views. There’s also a waterfall along the way that makes for a nice spot to stop and have a dip.

After Alpana, you join the main road that runs through Racha. From here until the Lajanuri Reservoir is a sharp canyon that is a definite highlight. Before we could end the day there was one final climb over a pass to Tsageri. At the top, we found Alexei and Vlad had been chatting with a local who invited us to camp in his backyard that night.

Day 2: Up the Lentekhi Valley

Day 3: Zagari Pass and Ushguli

Day 4: Ushguli to Mestia

Day 5: Mestia to Mazeri

Day 6: Mazeri to Zugdidi

Practicalities

There are a few important details I made note of throughout the trip that other bikepackers will find helpful.

Camping

Camping in Georgia is generally quite easy. It’s basically possible to camp anywhere you want. If there are people around or signs of habitation, then of course ask for permission, but it’s rare that anyone would say no. 

One issue I noticed on our trip was the difficulty finding a flat patch of ground clear of long vegetation that was also large enough for 4-5 tents.

Dogs and Wildlife

I’ve discussed bike travel and dogs previously, but dogs are a notorious issue for both hiking and bikepacking in Georgia. Shepherd dogs, and occasionally stray dogs, can be very aggressive.

However, Svaneti is well traversed by tourists and we had no incidents with dogs behaving aggressively towards us. Rather, the dogs we encountered became possessive of us and aggressively protected us from other dogs – which is more annoying than anything.

Friendly but overly protective and noisy.

Weather

When planning this trip, we were forced to delay our departure by a couple of extra days due to heavy rain in the forecast. If you can, plan around the weather and opt for the best possible outlook. That being said, the weather in the mountains can change quickly. So, make sure you come prepared to stay dry. 

We had one day with showers forecast and were hit by a sudden downpour in the upper Lentekhi valley. We scrambled for cover in the trees and the storm passed and we were able to stay dry. Even in summer in the mountains, you can get cold very quickly once wet.

I only had one cold night's sleep on this trip, which was when we camped at the highest elevation near Shkara Glacier, about 2,000 metres. You may sweat during the day, but the temperature drops rapidly after dark.

Food and Water Resupply

The largest shops are found in Kutaisi, Tsageri, and Mestia. There’s a small store in Lentekhi and Ushguli, but don’t expect much variety. There are also restaurants dotted along the route that make it possible to carry less food.

Stocking up at the shops in Kutaisi.

Water is very easy to come across in the mountains, with drinking water springs fairly common. It’s not advisable to drink the river water, usually the river is flowing too fast and is quite silty. If you were really in need you could filter it or boil it. Stick to the designated springs.

Train Travel with Bikes

When I first arrived in Georgia in 2020 the train conductors could be a bit difficult about putting a bike on the train. Now, they are more familiar with it, particularly the Zugdidi-Tbilisi train. It's really helpful to have a spare strap or some cord to secure your bike against a hand rail.

This system works well usually.

This train is quite old and the platform is much lower than the height of the train, so be prepared to awkwardly haul your bike up the vertical steps. To make the 6-7 hour trip more comfortable for both myself and those sitting around me, I had a change of clothes close at hand.

Bikepacking Svaneti: The Verdict

Svaneti is spectacular and a worthwhile bikepacking trip. The road surface is getting better and better so it can almost be completed on a roadbike. That said I was very happy on my gravel bike and others in our group were on mountain bikes.

The landscape is breathtaking, the villages unique, and the food will fill your belly to ride all day. Enjoy!